c/fence-erectors

My old post pounder finally gave out on a job in Springfield last Tuesday

The handle snapped clean off on the third post, which was a real pain because we were on a tight schedule for a 50-foot cedar fence. I had to run to the rental place and grab a new one, which set us back about two hours and $85 for the day. Anyone have a good brand for a heavy-duty pounder that can take a beating?

Rant: A client in Boulder insisted his fence line was exactly 150 feet, but his property pin was wrong

He pointed at a survey stake from 1998 and said 'that's the line, I've lived here 20 years.' I had to show him the county GIS map on my phone, which put the actual pin 8 feet into his neighbor's yard. He still wanted me to build on the wrong spot to avoid 'stirring up trouble.' Ever had a client fight you on something that could start a property dispute?

My bad call on a pressure-treated lumber order cost me a full day's work

I ordered a load of 6x6 posts from a new supplier in Tacoma last month, thinking I was getting a deal. The wood was green, I mean really wet, and it twisted so bad after a week I had to pull and replace eight of them. That mistake set me back about $400 in materials and a whole Saturday. Anyone else run into this with green pressure-treated stock, or do you have a supplier you trust to deliver dry wood?

Remember when we all used to dig post holes by hand?

Three years ago on a job in Spokane, my crew and I spent two full days just digging. Last week, the new guy had all 40 holes for a vinyl fence done with the auger before lunch. Anyone still using the old clamshell diggers for small jobs, or is that just a memory now?

A gust in Cincinnati taught me to always check the forecast before setting posts.

I was setting a 6-foot cedar panel when a sudden wind caught it, snapping a hinge before I could brace it. Had to recut the post and use a temporary ratchet strap system to finish the day. What's your go-to method for bracing panels in unpredictable weather?

Had to pick between cedar and composite for a big job in Springfield

The homeowner wanted a 6 foot privacy fence but couldn't decide on material. I laid out the cost, about $1500 more for the composite upfront. We went with cedar because they liked the natural look and I could stain it to match their house. It's been a year and they just called to say it's holding up great through the winter. Anyone have a go-to stain brand for cedar that lasts?

Warning: Just finished a 200-foot cedar fence in one day

Two-man crew, me and my cousin. We started at 6 AM, broke for lunch at noon. Used a hydraulic post driver for the first time. That thing is a game changer. Got the last picket up right as the sun went down. Never thought we could move that fast on a residential job. Anyone else have a go-to tool that just cuts your time in half?

My uncle told me to always set posts in wet concrete, even in clay soil.

Tried it on a job in Spokane last week and now I'm dealing with three leaning sections after a heavy rain. Anyone have a better method for wet, heavy ground?

I bought a post hole digger attachment for my skid steer and it was a total waste

Everyone kept saying it would save so much time on big jobs, so I dropped $1,800 on one last spring. Used it on three jobs in the Charlotte area and it was a nightmare in our clay soil. It just gummed up and stalled out constantly, and I ended up going back to my two-man auger every single time. I lost a full day of labor on the first job alone trying to make it work. Sold it for half what I paid just to get it out of my shop. Has anyone else found these attachments just don't work in certain ground conditions?

Used a 3/8 inch bit for a cedar post anchor and it was a mistake

I was setting some 4x4 cedar posts for a picket fence in Springfield last month and grabbed my 3/8 inch drill bit for the anchor bolts. The cedar was so soft that the bolts ended up with too much wiggle room, making the whole post feel loose before I even poured the concrete. I learned that with softwoods, you really need to go down to a 5/16 inch bit for a snug fit. Has anyone else run into this with cedar or redwood?

Changed my mind about setting posts in wet concrete after a job in Tulsa

I used to think mixing a little wet concrete in the bottom of the hole was a good way to set a post solid, but I saw a crew do it on a big vinyl fence job last month and it's a mess. The concrete sets up like a bowl and traps water right around the wood post, so it rots out way faster. I've pulled three posts from that same neighborhood already, and every one was mush at the base. What's your go-to method for a solid post that still drains?

PSA: Hit a gas line in a Denver backyard last Tuesday

Was digging post holes with my auger and the whole thing kicked back, smelled rotten eggs immediately. Had to call 811 right there, shut down the job for two days while they marked everything. Anyone else had a close call with utilities they didn't know were there?

Saw a fence in Sedona that looked like a modern art project gone wrong

I was out there last month for a family trip and spotted this crazy fence around a vacation rental, made from what looked like old skis, driftwood, and a few hubcaps. The owner came out and proudly told me it 'kept the vibes in', which was a new one for me. What's the weirdest material you've ever seen someone try to use for a fence?

Unpopular opinion: I think using a 4x4 for every corner post is overkill in some soils.

I was putting up a basic privacy fence for a neighbor in a new subdivision here in Springfield. The soil was that heavy, dense clay they have out by the new park. I figured it was tough stuff, so for the first two corner posts, I went with the standard 8-foot 4x4s and set them in concrete like always. On a whim for the third corner, I used a 6x6 post instead, thinking more mass would be even better. When we came back after the concrete cured, that 6x6 post had actually shifted slightly, while the 4x4s were rock solid. I think in that wet clay, the bigger hole I had to dig for the 6x6 just never packed as tightly, and the concrete didn't bond as well to the wider post. It made me wonder if the standard advice needs a soil check first. Has anyone else found that bigger isn't always better for post stability depending on the ground?

Had a whole section of vinyl fence buckle on me last Tuesday

Was finishing up a job in the afternoon heat, maybe 85 degrees, when I heard a loud pop. A 16-foot run of the white vinyl panels just bowed out in the middle, like it was trying to escape. I think the posts were set a little too shallow in the clay soil, and the heat made the material expand just enough to push them over. Anyone have a good rule of thumb for post depth in really dense ground?

Cleaned out the truck and found my 500th fence post cap

It was in a box of old parts from a job in Springfield three years back. I had been saving them from different jobs, just tossing them in a bin. When I counted them all out, it hit me that each one meant a different fence, a different yard, a different family. Makes you think about all the ground we cover in this line of work. What's the oldest piece of gear you've still got kicking around from a past project?

Question about those fancy digital post levelers

I thought those digital level tools were just a gimmick for new guys, but my crew used a DeWalt DW099PK on a tricky slope job in Asheville last month. It cut our setup time down by almost an hour because we weren't constantly checking and rechecking with a bubble level. Anyone else switch over and find it actually holds up on site?

A job in Phoenix made me stop using treated pine for all my fence posts

I was putting up a long privacy fence for a new build out there, and we used the same pressure treated 4x4s I always do. The homeowner asked me, point blank, 'How long will these last in this heat?' I gave my usual answer about 15 to 20 years. Fast forward three years later, I was back in the area for another job and drove by. The posts on the south side were already showing serious checking and splitting, way worse than I'd ever seen back home. The dry heat just baked the moisture right out of them. I talked to a local lumber guy who said for that climate, cedar or a composite post sleeve is a must, even if it costs more up front. Now I always ask about the local weather and sun exposure before I even pick up a post. Has anyone else had to switch up their standard post material for a really dry or hot area?

A homeowner in Austin told me his fence was 'just a line in the dirt' and it changed how I talk about quotes.

Big difference in my post hole digger speed after a simple change

I used to take a full day to set posts for a basic 50 foot cedar fence line. Last week, I did the same job in just under 4 hours. The only thing I changed was switching from a standard manual auger to a gas-powered one with a two-man handle. I rented the Power Planter 52cc model for $75 a day. The ground was the same hard clay in my usual work area. I couldn't believe how much faster it cut through. Has anyone else made a switch like this and found it paid for itself quickly?

Had to pick between cedar and pressure-treated pine for a big backyard job in Boise

The client wanted something that looked nice but didn't want to pay a fortune. I went with the cedar, even though it cost about $500 more for the whole project. It was a bit more work to stain, but the final look is way better and the homeowner was thrilled. Anyone else have a go-to choice when the budget is tight but the look matters?

The cedar versus pressure-treated pine debate for a big job in Spokane

Got a call for a 300 foot privacy fence around a new house last spring. The owner wanted it to look good but was on a tight budget. I laid out the two main options: cedar, which looks great right away and ages well, but costs more, or pressure-treated pine, which is cheaper but needs paint or stain to look decent. I pushed for cedar, even though it was about $800 more for the materials, because I knew it would last longer with less work for them. They went with the pine to save money. The job itself was fine, but six months later they called, upset that the wood was already looking gray and rough. I had to explain that's just what pine does if you don't seal it fast. Now I wish I'd been firmer about the cedar choice. Anyone else run into this and have a good way to talk clients into the better long-term material?

Heads up on the new pressure treated wood rules from the EPA

I was reading the updated fact sheet from the EPA website last night, and the new copper levels they allow in pressure treated wood are way lower than I thought. It's down to 0.06% for above-ground use now, which is a big drop from the old stuff. Anyone else had to explain this change to a customer yet? It's making me double-check my supplier's stock.

Been seeing a lot of posts in my area about using landscape timbers for fence posts

They rot out in like 2 years, especially in wet soil. Anyone else run into this and have a better cheap material that actually lasts?

Tried a new way to set posts in wet ground and it backfired

I had a job in a low spot that stays wet, so I thought I'd try setting the fence posts in a gravel base with a dry concrete mix on top, like some guys online said. After two days of rain, the whole section leaned over about six inches because the concrete never set right. I learned that in truly wet soil, you have to use a fast-set mix or wait for a dry spell, no shortcuts. Has anyone else found a good fix for a fence that's already leaning from this?