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PMS color shift on cheap fabric killed my whole sewn patch order

I run a small Etsy shop in Portland and ordered 200 embroidered patches using Pantone 2945C for the base blue. The supplier's proof looked fine on screen but when the fabric rolls arrived last Tuesday, the shade came out noticeably duller, almost gray. I tried a few fixes like adjusting the embroidery thread count and asking for a different backing, but the real solution was switching to a cotton twill that took the dye differently. The same color code landed way closer on the twill vs the polyester blend I picked first. Has anyone else had luck matching spot colors on fabric by testing a few substrate samples before committing to a bulk run?
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