Pro tip: Not every frame needs a torque wrench for carbon parts

I see guys in the shop treating every carbon fiber bolt like it's a NASA rocket part. I mean, yeah, you don't want to crush a fork or stem. But I've been building up aluminum frames with carbon posts and bars for about 4 years now, and half the time I just use a basic hex key and feel. Had a customer last month bring in a bike where his seatpost clamp was at 4 Nm from a torque wrench and it still slipped on a bumpy descent. I snugged it by hand to maybe 5.5 Nm and it's been fine for 50 miles. I'm not saying ditch the torque wrench on expensive stuff, but maybe it's not the magic fix everyone acts like. Anyone else just go by feel on certain parts?

2 comments

2 Comments

theabennett1d agoMost Upvoted

My Fizik saddle slipped at the factory spec of 5 Nm on my aluminum post, so I bumped it up by half a turn with a standard hex key and it hasn't moved in over a year. For me, the key is learning that "tight enough" on a carbon part is just before you feel the bolt start to strain, not a random number from a chart.

adamcoleman1d ago

Same here, I go by feel too after cracking a carbon post.