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Skip the OEM board or match it? I picked wrong on a dryer last Tuesday and ate $140
Heads up to anyone doing board swaps on dryers: last Tuesday I had a Kenmore with a dead control board and I had to pick between the $210 OEM board from the distributor or a $70 rebuild off a parts site. I went cheap because the customer was on a tight budget and the rebuild came with a 90 day warranty, which sounded fine at the time. Board showed up Thursday, I put it in, dryer ran for about 20 minutes and then threw the same error code. Turns out the rebuild had a bad relay and I had to eat the $70 plus $70 for a second one day shipping, so I'm out $140 and two trips across town. Meanwhile the OEM board I should've bought the first time would've had me done in one visit. Lesson for me is anything with a heating circuit gets a real board, no more rebuilds, and I'm sticking to that from now on. What's your cutoff for rebuilds versus OEM on control boards? I want to hear if anyone's had good luck with them on other appliances.
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